Help me find the right VMC for are needs.

So after much research and thought the bosses are looking at buying a Haas TM -2p. Who am I kidding they looked at two machines and the Haas was “way cheaper”* The Haas actually looks like a nice machine. But I don’t think it is right for what we need it to do. So what I need it to do is hold a cylinder with a max of 7″ dia x 19″ in a 4th axis rotary with tailstock. Then hard mill with cutters of mostly 1/64 to 1/32″ Will be slotting and pocketing but with a lot of curves and radius. Don’t need to make more then one or two parts a day. Anyone have any recommendations? I am looking at other machines but some companies I swear do not want to sell machines. One wanted my whole life story just to get machine spec’s much less a price.

Looking for programming manual, Dynapath Delta 20

I’m in search of either a hard copy of, or digital, a programming manual for a Dynapath Delta 20 control for my Tree Journeyman 325 mill. I’ll gladly pay for someone to scan/pdf their hardcopy for me to print out. Or, of someone already has a digital copy, I’ll still throw some money in for a copy of it. Thanks in advance if anyone can help.

-I tried contacting Dynapath last week with no success.

Drilling 15-5 PH with HSS drills

Hi All:
We’re building a set of dies for carbon fiber molding and the dies are 15-5 PH.
The blocks are solution annealed (or so the steel supplier claims).
Keith is doing the preliminary machining and there is drilling involved.

Well, it sounds like shit!!! Godawful graunching noises; almost like drilling Inconel
Keith’s running conservative settings 40SFM, 0.002″ chipload, 0.050″ peck increment.
This is with HSS drills because the number of parts doesn’t really justify buying a bunch of carbide drills
Hole sizes range from 1/4″ to about 1″ diameter.

He’s tried a bunch of different speeds and feeds, and he’s getting through the job just fine, but Oh My God…the noise!!

You’d swear the drill is toast, but when it’s inspected, it looks fine.

Seems to be a lot of hardness variation in the blocks too; it’ll run nice and quiet till it’s in an inch and then the music starts, and then it suddenly stops again.
The chips look good regardless of whether the drill is whispering or howling.

Have any of you run this material before?
Is this about what you’d expect or do we have crap material?

BTW, Keith claims it mills just fine.

Any comments will be appreciated, (so long as you don’t demand we switch to carbide for this job).


Writing custom canned cycles for Fanuc Oi control

Hi All:
Today I played around with peck roughing (on the lathe) using G83 on stringy material and it worked very well.
However, on my Oi control the behavior of G83 depends on a parameter that can be set to make it either chip break or do full retract.
I want to be able to do either without having to make that parameter change…chip break for my roughing and full retract for the holes I have to drill.
Since I can’t have both behaviors in the same program, I assume I have to write a custom canned cycle to be able to get both when I want them.
So how do I go about that?

I don’t want to do it with a sub if I can avoid it; a canned cycle would be really nice.
All advice will be happily appreciated.

Rigid tapping without rigid tapping – WTF?

This morning, and for the second time in recent memory, one of my guys forgot what he was doing and put a tap in a ordinary ER collet chuck in one of the old machines that doesn’t have rigid tapping.

Both times the holes have come out perfect and I’ve felt like a fool while lecturing him how critical it is to use a tension-compression holder in this machine.

This morning it was a M16 in steel, last time it was a M12 Helicoil in 6082T6. The M16 I can kind of understand, but the M12 in aluminium surely should have stripped the threads or cut them oversize – but it didn’t.

What gives??

Machine is a 1992 Hurco BMC25 / Ultimax 2 control. The Yaskawa spindle drive supports rigid tapping, but I know for fact that the control doesn’t.

I’m not about to go and put all the taps in rigid holders for this machine, I’m just curious.

Tormach Mill or not

Hello, I am thinking of buying a CNC Mill for mostly hobby use and maybe a few repair parts for friends and family.

I am looking at the Tormach Mill with the 8 inch rotary table as the 4th axis kit and Sprutcam for software. I am hoping someone with first hand experience with this Mill could advise me or tell me of there experience with it.


Question on Boring after Drilling Operation

So we are CNC machining a part that has a similar shape to a 2 Liter Soda bottle cap. But its in 316L stainless. The part requires the rear of the ID wall to be flat. So lets say I decide not to use a flat bottom endmill. I want to use a standard drill. The particular drill we are using is a .562″ diamter carbide drill with 140 deg tip angle. Now after this drill I want to clean up the ID as well as create the flat surface on the rear wall. However, I’m left with an 70 degree angle (per side) against the rear wall and my boring bar has almost no relief angle on it. So machining direction from ID to centerline is not really wise. Can I machine it in the opposite direction from centerline, to ID, back out to Z0.0 ??? or is there a better way to do this ???

CNC Lathe For High School

Hello all,

I’m an instructor for our High School precision machining program, I’ve been asked to look into CNC lathes, my experience is with manual machines so I figured I would come here for some advice.

First off our budget would be $10,000, I don’t know if that’s really feasible, I’ve found some but they seem a little iffy. We’re not looking for industrial grade, something simple with a small footprint for the students to get familiar with running small parts etc.

Thanks for any help, as I said I’m really not familiar with CNC machines.

Current machines

6 Atlas Mills
6 Clausing engine lathes

ID Grooving 316 Stainless Steel

I’m using a .070″ Width ID Groover, solid carbide. ID of the bore is .734 and my ID groove OD is .819″. I’m only going about .040″ deep and I keep breaking these damn things after 6 or 7 pieces. A good amount of squealing going on as well. Spindle direction good. Coolant good. Currently at 250SFM and .0005″/rev. Was at 100 SFM .0015″/rev. Neither seems to get the job done. I’m not pecking, just a straight .040″ plunge. Any ideas?

D shaped pocket mill

Hi, I was hoping to get some help here. I’m trying to mill a D shaped hole with the D at an angle.

The first picture is an example of what I need the D shaped hole to look like. the second is what I’m getting. The radius is in the wrong spot. Any help would be greatly appreciated.