Vmc spindle out of tram but axis seems square

2000 yang vmc 1000, same machine as hardinge ii 1000. Machine is level, using a granite 18 square z travel is out less than .0005 to x and y. But sweeping the table front and left side is low .002 over 8 inches. To cross check I ran tenths indicator across the face of the spindle and it’s low .0005 same sides over about 2 inches.
Also if I lean on the head it will easily move back andd up .002 while sweeping. I will remove sheet metal tonight to investigate. Ever seen this? May have a loose truck or balls gone? Rails loose?
Thanks, steve

Tormach machine – advice on tooling for machining Titanium

I’m working on the 6-4 grade stuff.

I’m going to buy some tooling and I’m not sure what would be the best to get.

I have always center drilled my holes with a combination center drill, and then drilled with a regular HSS 118 degree drill.

I have heard that spot drilling is actually better for doing the same operation as a center drill. Can anybody elaborate on why that is the case?

So If I am going to be buying some spot drills, which angle should I buy? I notice they come in angles of 90, 120, and 140.

Also, assuming that I will then be drilling these holes, should I stick with a regular 118 degree drill or can I move to the smaller screw machine length drills that are shorter and seem more rigid? Most of these have a 135 degree angle, and I’m not sure if this would be good for Ti.

Most holes I’ll be drilling will be less than 5/16 in diameter, and through less than 1/4″ of material.

I know that solid carbide would be best for Ti, and coated as well. I will definitely go ahead with that with the spot drills I buy, but not sure about the drills.

I will also be reaming some holes through the same material, and I was advised by someone that carbide tipped reamers would be better than solid carbide, because I would retain the “semi-flexibility” of the HSS body, while still having the strength of the carbide cutting edges. Solid carbide for a reamer seems good but brittle, and that’s the reason this person suggested that.

Thinking of dumping our crappy Haas mills. Anyone running Haas 5 axis rotaries?

Over the past couple years, not knowing any better, I bought 4 Haas verticals for the shop I started from scratch. First machine I got was an 2006 VF2 with almost no extra options. It has given me almost no problems. The other 3 machines I bought were new VF-3SS models with though tool coolant, 40 tools, and 5 axis options installed. I combined each VF3 with a Haas TR-160 rotary.

This whole setup has been horribly unreliable since day one. My new Haas machines all arrived with problems right out of the box. Now that the warranties have expired, I’m literally spending WELL over $10k per machine annually in repairs, and that’s with an independent tech. It was way worse using service from the local HFO. These machines are less than 2 years old. They are down probably 20% of the time. The rotaries are worse, I now have two spares because they break so much. I spend another $5k rebuilding each rotary about once per year, if I’m lucky. So that’s $15k+ for the rotary / machine combination every year in repairs.

Is just me, or is this pretty ridiculous? The repair costs are bad enough, but the constant downtime is becoming too much to handle. We run aluminum on these machines 24 hours a day, and it’s becoming increasingly obvious that Haas machines aren’t built for round the clock production.

Does it seem worthwhile to sell our Haas mills, take the ~30% hit in depreciation, and go to something more expensive like the Okuma M560? I have no experience with any 5 axis rotary other than Haas. Are the Nikken trunnions better, or will they need be rebuilt every year too? Last thing I want to do is buy more expensive rotaries only to find out they don’t last any longer and cost even more to repair than the Haas.