Hardinge and Hartwig have divorced

According to Hardinge as of September 1st Hartwig is no longer selling Hardinge. They are going to announce a new arrangement soon, but until then contact Hardinge directly for sales or service. That came as a surprise to me because Hartwig had just quoted another 480APC machine to me a couple of weeks ago and I was going to spend some time with their rep going over the new Mits control to see if I can live with it.

turning grades and swiss back facing tools.

Whats your go to turning grades? I have a cnc swiss that is time to for a new main toolholder and I am seeking guidance. I am using a screw down dcmt3251 insert in a Kennametal sdjcfr103b 16mm holder ( which I like for the carbide seat). My favorite grade so far is Kennametal’s KC5010. Its on the way out for the beyond grades ( I think the kcu25 ). The machine turns mostly 4140 prehard 1/2 and below, 1018, 1117. I want to stay a D shape as for the parts we cut a CNXX just won’t clear.
Its a 12′ barfeed machine, so ideally something with edge life in hours not minutes. The Kennametal kc5010 has served me well but its time to see what else is out there

also – the subspindle side facing tool- I am using a 3/4 inch SDUCL boring bar trimmed off short – but its a PITA to keep the insert dead on center in a round cup with just a set screw- without a lot of work for a more robust torsional adjustment I have no solution for the tool rotating down in the cup and intial setting.

Buying my First CNC machine

My name is Frank I’m new to the forum. Ive been an operator for almost 2 years now and looking into buying my first CNC machine. I was looking into older Mazaks, but had some advice to be prepared for expensive repairs. Im just looking for some guidance one which direction to go. We run Mazaks at the shop I work at which is why i was leaning that way, but I also like the Okumas. The price of a new haas tm1 is nice but with any options it can get over $40k quick and is much less machine than a mazak or okuma. So my question is what is my best option with reasonable repair cost. I will be seeing the machine operate in person before purchase. So basic working condition is not a concern as much as possible repairs I might run into

How to thread in center of part

So, I’m used to doing threads starting from the end of the part.. If I have a thread that is the same OD as the stock material, and it starts and finishes well within the work piece, how to I make the first threads come out well? I used a g76 but the starting threads are too shallow. So the beginning becomes unusuable for the split screw that attaches to it later.

Thanks for your help.

Hardinge T42 B Axis Problem

Had the T42 running a simple tubing job.
Part has 1/8″ cross hole.
Machine made 100 Pcs. using proven program.
Live cross drill was programed at B0 & B180.

So the mechanical lock was firing and locking.
(this machine only can lock at 2.5 Deg.)

Now it refuses to lock and getting a 2029 alarm.

Have gotten around it for now by programing B6.0 & B186.0
The spindle brake will hold if not divisible by 2.5.
Plenty strong for this job.

Seems it might be a proximity switch gone semi-bad?

Anyone experienced this before?

Thanks!

G76 Threading with Fanuc 0TC

I’m trying to cut a 1.562-12 thread using the G76 threading cycle and am having some problems. My lathe has a Fanuc 0TC control and uses the two-line format for G76. Here’s my code for the thread:

N850 G76 P020060 Q0005 R0.0002
N860 G76 X1.4633 Z-0.56 P0496 Q0070 F0.0833

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There seems to be some variation in the syntax for this cycle amongst the various Fanuc controllers, and even within the same model, particularly in regards to which blocks allow decimal values. What you see above is the only combination that works in my control.

My problem is the number of passes. With my code, the control cuts the thread in 52 (!!) passes. A 12-pitch thread shouldn’t take more than ten passes. Can this be achieved with the G76 cycle?

Vmc spindle out of tram but axis seems square

2000 yang vmc 1000, same machine as hardinge ii 1000. Machine is level, using a granite 18 square z travel is out less than .0005 to x and y. But sweeping the table front and left side is low .002 over 8 inches. To cross check I ran tenths indicator across the face of the spindle and it’s low .0005 same sides over about 2 inches.
Also if I lean on the head it will easily move back andd up .002 while sweeping. I will remove sheet metal tonight to investigate. Ever seen this? May have a loose truck or balls gone? Rails loose?
Thanks, steve

Tormach machine – advice on tooling for machining Titanium

I’m working on the 6-4 grade stuff.

I’m going to buy some tooling and I’m not sure what would be the best to get.

I have always center drilled my holes with a combination center drill, and then drilled with a regular HSS 118 degree drill.

I have heard that spot drilling is actually better for doing the same operation as a center drill. Can anybody elaborate on why that is the case?

So If I am going to be buying some spot drills, which angle should I buy? I notice they come in angles of 90, 120, and 140.

Also, assuming that I will then be drilling these holes, should I stick with a regular 118 degree drill or can I move to the smaller screw machine length drills that are shorter and seem more rigid? Most of these have a 135 degree angle, and I’m not sure if this would be good for Ti.

Most holes I’ll be drilling will be less than 5/16 in diameter, and through less than 1/4″ of material.

I know that solid carbide would be best for Ti, and coated as well. I will definitely go ahead with that with the spot drills I buy, but not sure about the drills.

I will also be reaming some holes through the same material, and I was advised by someone that carbide tipped reamers would be better than solid carbide, because I would retain the “semi-flexibility” of the HSS body, while still having the strength of the carbide cutting edges. Solid carbide for a reamer seems good but brittle, and that’s the reason this person suggested that.